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The things people ask us most before buying.
Larger heads of 105 square inches and up give a bigger sweet spot and more free power, which suits improvers and anyone who does not generate their own pace. Mid-size heads around 95 to 100 square inches give more control and a cleaner feel, but you have to swing properly to get anything out of them. Most club players sit between 98 and 105.
They matter in different ways. Weight determines stability: a heavier frame holds its line against a hard ball and transmits less shock to the arm, while a lighter one is easier to swing but gets pushed around. Head size determines forgiveness. A light racket with a big head is the most beginner-friendly combination; a heavy racket with a small head is the least.
Balance is where the weight sits along the frame. Head heavy rackets are usually lighter overall and add power for players with shorter swings. Head light rackets are usually heavier overall and suit players who generate their own pace and want manoeuvrability at the net. Even balance is the safe middle.
Frames sold unstrung are aimed at players who want a specific string and tension, and the cost of stringing needs adding. Strung rackets come ready to play with a factory string that is fine to start with. If you do not yet know what string you like, buy strung.
The old guideline is to restring as many times per year as you play per week. Strings lose tension from the moment they go in, whether you play or not, so a racket strung two years ago is well past its best even if nothing has broken. If you are breaking strings regularly, a polyester will last longer.
Junior frames are sized by length, not age. Most players move to a 27 inch adult frame at around 11 or 12, but the test is whether they can swing the racket through the ball without the head dropping. Moving up too early builds bad habits that take longer to undo than waiting.
